![]() ![]() I actually have sort of a love/hate relationship with it. Sort of a three-dimensional epoxy, since it can be built up to cover frighteningly large holes in things that shouldn’t have holes in them. Graham and Duncan both mentioned fuel tank repairs with epoxy Duncan specified that by first plugging the leak with bar soap you can then clean the area and apply epoxy to further seal and reinforce it. He also used it to repair a stripped hole for an oil pump bolt, by filling the hole with epoxy, then drilling and tapping it once cured. Graham once epoxied a nut to the stripped head of a stuck timing cover bolt and was then able to remove it. It’s easy to forget just how strong two-part epoxy can be. I know of someone who completely mummified a distributor in it for a (successful) deep-water crossing. It only sticks to itself, thus getting it off to effect a proper repair back home is no trouble. ![]() I’ve heard of it being used to seal high-pressure air lines and even fuel lines as well. ![]() I’ve used it once to repair a split radiator hose and it worked brilliantly. There are other self-fusing silicone tapes on the market this brand just happens to be the one I carry. Duncan mentions Bar’s Leaks as an equivalent. It’s compatible with all types of antifreeze and any radiator material. However, once the Toyota parts man tells you the price, you probably won’t think about using it to repair your Hi-Tecs.Īvailable in a mess-proof powder form, AlumAseal will effectively squelch any but the most grievous radiator or heater core leak. It dries to a tough, rubberlike consistency and so can be used for about a zillion fixes besides vehicle problems. The black stuff is the general-purpose tube to carry for most field repairs. It comes in two colors: black, used to seal parts that will come in contact with oil or water, and a thicker red formula specifically designed for applications involving gear oil-transmissions, transfer cases, and differentials. No matter what brand of vehicle you drive, Toyota’s FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) sealant/glue-which Toyota mechanics refer to as “FI-PIG,” is markedly superior in adhesion, sealing, and durability to the generic silicone RTV gasket sealant found in most hardware and auto supply stores. ![]() Note two essential lubricants at hand: WD-40 and bourbon. Gary Haynes repairing a door stop on a Land Rover Defender 110. Here’s what we came up with, first in the way of commercial products and then in “bodge” fixes when nothing else is available. I looked in my own kit, enlisted the help of two of our OT&T experts-Duncan Barbour and Graham Jackson-and also queried my nephew, Jake Beggy, a master Toyota mechanic and fabricator. Kidding aside, it’s an excellent question-a very large number of field repairs involve some sort of leak or breakage that requires a chemical or mechanical fix. I would like an expert opinion about assembling a selection of adhesives, chemicals, and other products most useful for overland vehicle field repair issues such as cracked hoses, radiators, or fuel lines, and for replacing gaskets, joining metal or plastic pieces, sealing electrical repairs, and so on.Īlexander’s question brought to mind the old aphorism about the perfect two-piece tool kit: WD-40 (to fix the things that are supposed to move but won’t) and duct tape (to fix the things that aren’t supposed to move but do). ![]()
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